Leek. The Delightful Detour

We went off plan yesterday when a Waterways guy told us a different route to The Hollybush. He said we could avoid any locks by taking the Leek turn and mooring on the aqueduct. So lovely is this part of the canal, that we decided.to continue for an hour along the Leek arm its terminous near the town.

There are few prettier detours even if you can't get anywhere. We moored at the end of the canal and walked through a scrap yard and industrial estate before climbing up into the market place. Leek is another silk town and full of interesting buildings. We shopped, had Prosecco in Getliffe's wine bar and curry at Pabna's. We were glad we didn't miss this experience.

Today we enjoyed an afternoon's cruise with the real Princess Lucy and her mum and dad. We tied up for afternoon tea and Lucy decorated cakes with icing, sprinkles and animals, finishing the design with fresh roses. Very classy. Look out Mary Berry.

Tonight is one of those rare dinners onboard and then "Gone with the Wind," a DVD we have had for ages, but not yet seen.

Safe Moorings

As time goes by, (sing along if you wish) we become more confused about where (and where not) it is safe to moor. Our downloaded Waterways World article said of Etruria Basin, that "you may not want to stay there overnight." The man we met coming into Etruria from the Caldon said, "It's a bit rough up there." Well it looked OK  and we have honestly no idea what he meant.

Tonight tried to discuss this with another boater in The Holly Bush at Denford. His offering on the canal around Hanley was enlightening: "I thought I was the wrong colour." So we are struggling to discern the genuine bits of advice from racism (and probably a host of other prejudices). It's troubling to admit that some, not all, boaters are afraid of different people - be they people of colour, people with dreadlocks, in fact anyone who looks different from them. We asked the waterways man what there was to fear in Milton. He said it was kids throwing bottles. That seems to be main real threat. Not people who look different.

We slept peacefully in Etruria Basin, and met many friendly locals.

Today we met a young lad who looked poor and uncared for. He was fishing by the locks at Stockton Brook with a stick. He'd caught a Bream. This is very enterprising and we congratulated him.

Sun Scorched in Stoke

Since we last blogged, narrowboating has been very hectic. Tonight we are sunburnt in Etruria, and tomorrow the weather promises to burn us somewhere else. Our progress had been stunning (for us), perhaps it would be modest for others. But, to begin at the beginning.

We were in a rainy Marple on Saturday night moping about because we were missing Rocky. The weather cleared, we pressed on to Macclesfield where we hung around for 2 nights. We explored the town with its unusual and impressive architecture. Even Wetherspoons has Art Deco toilets. We had an excellent curry with visiting family in the old fashioned Pappadams. We noted that the dated interior with its heavy use of fabrics meant we could actually hold a conversation!

The next day we met our neighbours at the top of the Bosley flight. They helped us down the locks - in full sunshine. It was superb to be messing about on a boat.

Today we have done the Harecastle tunnel and cruised through Stoke which looked much softer than last time because of the sunlight and greenery. We returned to Middleport pottery and bought some plates, (Goldilocks size plates for the boat, that is - not too big - not too small).

Last night we moored near Buglawton, overlooked by a blue cow. Tonight we are moored in Etruria; watched over by a statue of a rather superior looking James Brindley.

Carry on up the Caldon

We are beginning a two week trip where we might reach Cheddleton or maybe Leek.

Today we acheived our target of Marple in the pouring rain. Skillfully avoiding the Giant Hogweed at New Mills, we travelled the 2.5 hours from our mooring at Furness Vale. The new alternator appears to be working and the new set of domestic batteries look good. The following days which include a stationary day in Macclesfield, will test them properly.

There is a shadow hanging over this trip. We should have had Rocky with us pacing back and forth checking out all points from the stern. But for the first time in 30 odd years, we are "dogless." Rocky, the small greyhound, who has been with us for the last 12 months has left us for the beaches of the south coast.

We live in "sheep country" and Rocky's passion for sheep proved too stressful for both him and us, and after one sheep incident too many, we realised that he could not have any sort of life with us other than tethered to a lead. Which is no life for a breed built to run.

After some quick thinking by our friend Sarah of Chertsey, we came up with a plan for a new home away from the temptation of sheep rustling and the the very real threat of a farmer's gun. Sarah suggested that Rocky might do better with Jim.
So we are have having to get used to life without him. Jim phoned today to report that he is settling in to his new life quite well. He has new friends, new walks and Jim is clearly looking after him splendidly.

Tonight we are headed to Murillo's (Spanish restaurant).

No need to leave the radio or the light in for Rocky.

The Call of the Sea

Last night, Saturday night that is, turned out somewhat different to how it was planned. The plan was to have a meal in our holiday cottage (smoked salmon, prawns, and spinach with fresh pasta). But that was not to be, and on a whim, "it will keep" I said, we shot across the lock to the Crinan Hotel Seafood Bar.

Battered Haddock for me, Arbroath Smokie for First Mate and and some bits from the table and lots of fun with friends for Rockie. Even the owners' dog, Fly, seemed happy to see Rocky.

In the bar we met Hilda and Chris who were on a 38' yacht, moored in Crinan Haven for the night.  (For narrowboat people, a yacht is like the boat you draw when you are 6, with a pointy bit in the middle). They had brought this beauty all the way up from Lagos in Portugal to Oban. They had achieved this in stages over a number of years.

We thought that people with serious sea going craft would hold Princess Lucy in mild contempt, but it turned out that Hilda and Chris are seriously thinking about moving to narrowboating, whereas we, I now confess, have a serious attack of "the call of the sea."

Well, drink was consumed, and we had a tour of the yacht (strange to see Waterways World on top of the navigational charts!) The drinking then continued in our cottage and there was lots of boaty chat including chat about toilet "issues" (pun intended).

We waved them off this morning in glorious sunshine in a flat calm sea (The Sound of Jura). I turned to First Mate, "I said those sails were no use."

The sea still calls.

Everything but a narrowboat

NB Princess Lucy is temporarily out of action. She is waiting for a replacement starter alternator to be fitted. 

The alternator, it transpires, is quite rare, and to allow Nick from TW Marine time to sort one, we have taken to the car and driven a ridiculous distance north to spend a week in the former lock keepers cottage at Crinan Canal Sea Lock.

You can get all manner of craft passing through the sea lock at the end of the stunning Crinan canal on the West coast of Scotland.

We have constant and variable views of the craft passing through this most beautiful shortcut. We also happen to have a lighthouse in the front garden. Just today we have been entertained by an old Clyde Puffer leaving the basin and heading seaward to Fort William. 

There were yachts of all shapes and sizes, swanky motor boats and at the end of a busy working day, the lock keepers had to stay late to help a tall ship, The Flying Dutchman, take shelter in the sea lock over night. That proved to be a monstrous job manoevering a big sailing ship into a tight space against a brisk wind. Ropes, inflatables and sheer determination brought this off.

There will be more of our sightings soon. At the moment our internet connections are very iffy and we rely on hanging out of the window to connect to free wifi from the coffee shop across the lock.

Bath and Bristol on our to do list

Rocky has been quite adventurous lately. We recently had a rest and recovery weekend aboard Princess Lucy and on one of his walks, he made an impressive attempt at surfing. Either that or he was building a life raft. He found an old pallet in the River Goyt just down from The Peak Forest Canal at Whaley. Perhaps he was frustrated at not being able to take the tiller.

At least it made a change from him trying to find a sheep round every corner.

Visitor Moorings in Bristol

We have just returned from our first cottage break with Rocky in a converted barn in the ancient village of Compton Bishop in Somerset. He got to run his heart out on on the beach and had fish and chips in Weston Super Mare, so this was altogether a different holiday to boating. However, we decided to check out the possibility of bringing our boat down to Avon. This would be the furthest South she could get to from the Peak Forest. At our usual snail's pace, it could take 6 weeks (maybe more). But with work interrupting our boating adventures, this can't happen any time soon. It's at the ideas level but Rocky still insisted on checking out the visitor moorings outside the Arnolfino Art Gallery. Because you never know. It might happen one day.

Bristol harbour is most impressive especially on a steamy summer day where the number of visitors in flip flops and shorts could persuade you that this is the South of France. It is full of boats (and ships) of all shapes and sizes and the harbour is lined with smart cafes and bars. People messing about sipping skinny lattes.

The modern cosmopolitan version of this harbour betrays little of its massively important role in the slave trade except for the naming of Pero's bridge after an African slave brought to Bristol.

We met a Big Issue seller with his lovely little dog Reggie who told us that they were just about to kick off the huge Bristol Harbour Festival and how good it is. So we were much attracted to the idea of hanging out there on Princess Lucy.

Bath

We also had a trip to Bath and found the moorings there to be right on the edge of surely the most attractive regency city in the Western hemisphere.

Unfortunately the prettiest moorings (see picture) are now closed following the eviction by Somerset Council of a line of liveaboards. Rumour is that the council plan to install electric and water facilities and charge for future use of the moorings. The moved boats appear to be still on the Avon, but to the south of the city in a CaRT controlled section . There was still plenty of spaces though and Rocky was happy enough with them, and the Avon.

Dream on Rocky. You have to have a dream. We'll get there one day. You'll see and by then you'll be on the tiller whilst we do the locks.

Whaley and the Water Weekend

Our last post was largely about the weather, and in particular about the inaccuracy of weather forecasting. The theme could continue here, but, hey, let's give the weathermen a break. You know, I just don't care anymore about the weather, and I possibly now regret my petition to have all weather people put on Performance Related Pay.

But staying on he subject of the weather - just for a moment - the Whaley weather swung violently between that very wet rain, and that very beautiful sunshine. Saturday was mostly wet, and you might have expected a dismal turnout. But the trip boats continued to fly past full of customers (flying so fast that one of the wee Bollington day-trip boats pulled the pins from of one of our neighbours). Yes, like me, the Whaley people also didn't care about the weather, and on Sunday when the sun did come out, all of the people who did care about the weather came as well, and the place was buzzing.

We arrived on Friday night and tied up and the end of a line of boats who we later found out were 'traders.' I don't think anyone noticed we had nothing to sell! We did have Rocky though, who seems to be adored by everyone. Perhaps we could have charged folk to stroke his neck?

We had fabulous food out on Friday at Casa di Pizza and on Saturday at Zayka. Work friends and neighbours popped in to see us and on Saturday evening (just as the rain subsided) First Mate served a bunch of us with cocktails (Passion Fruit Martinis - and very nice). After two of those, the world seemed good, and I was at peace with the weathermen.

The weekend wouldn't have been complete without Alton chugging by, and although we didn't need anything this time, near enough everyone else seemed to, including a jump start for Gracie (although a push start would have been more impressive!)

Here is the final picture from the weekend, so sing along everyone ...

What a difference a day makes

Twenty-four little hours

Brought the sun and the flowers

Where there used to be rain.

Weather or Whether....

We enjoyed planning our Spring Bank jaunt to Bollington. We were fastidious in booking ahead for restaurants, calculating routes and packing food and clothing. Then the weather forecast was so dreadful, predicting relentless downpours for Friday, Saturday and Sunday, that we came very close to staying home under the duvet for the entire holiday. It had rained hard on Thursday night and First Mate had been miserably soaked to the skin on Rocky's walk. So we were justifiably wary of three days of the same.

But on Friday, reckless as ever, we made the decision to go and see what happened. We could, after all, always come back to Furness Vale the next day.

We got to the boat at 5.45 and cast off for the 2 hour cruise to The Strines. It was supposed to rain. It didn't. We made fabulous time due to another boat doing 3 out of the 4 swing/lift bridges for us. We tied up in sunshine, walked to the Sportsman in sunshine with Rocky for dinner. He clicked with another boater's dog, Gale, and lay on the floor French kissing her. He was happy and we were happy.

On Saturday, we did not lie in but instead cast off at 8 am, made it to Bridge 25 in the dry and tied up at noon. It then rained very heavily during our afternoon nap but miraculously cleared for a sunny walk to see the Historic Narrowboat gathering at the Adelphi Mill. This was a meager showing with Alton and two other boats but it was gloriously warm and pleasant strolling over the viaduct to reach them.We had dinner with Rocky and more new canine pals at the Windmill. It was excellent. On Sunday we made it to Marple and in fair amount of sunshine. Had a lovely walk down the lock flight, chatted to a number of boaters including this one!!!  and had a good dinner at Marple Spice. On Monday we came back to Furness Vale, again in sunshine with just one spit of rain which amounted to nothing. So, all this boring detail is leading us to the main point, that if we had gone on the weather forecast, we would have had none of these pleasures.

We have just returned from preparing Princess Lucy for Whaley Water Weekend. She is decked with flowers and has had her roof accessories painted but downpours, thunderstorms and plagues of locusts are predicted. We are definitely going and in hope that we can defy the weather forecasters again. The main header picture for this blog is of late and lovely Jemma basking in the afternoon sunshine at the same festival which we happened on purely by chance last year. But then someone did say that 2013 was the first time in ten years that the sun had shone and they normally expect to get a soaking. Ever the optimists, Our next job is fitting solar panels.

Macclesfield draws nearer every day.

We are attempting the prize for the slowest cruise ever to Macclesfield (from Furness Vale). In the first 3 days, we have made it to Poynton, so that's an average of an hour and a bit each day! We are on target, and achieving our goal by lying in bed drinking at least two mugs of tea, having a two course breakfast, walking Rocky for an hour and all before setting off. An hour or so later we have made the few miles needed and we stop for lunch and siesta. Then it's afternoon tea followed by Rocky's afternoon walk. Then time for cocktails and dinner.

One downside of these short cruises is that we have to run the engine half the day to keep the batteries charged, and the wine chilled, but it's a small price.

This evening, we had a poor welcome from the Boar's Head at Poynton and won't be rushing back there. In spite of booking in advance, it seemed to be an effort to seat us, serve us and we had to pay up front because they had "run out of tabs" ??? We ate mediocre food in front of a giant TV footie game. Very sociable. Anyway we were soon back aboard Princess Lucy where the bar is well stocked and the atmosphere rather more convivial.

Previous meals out have been the very friendly (humans and dogs that is) Sportsman at the Strines, and the outstanding Murillo's in Marple (Spanish).

Above is a picture of Rocky where he should be, and below, one of where he shouldn't be!